A winter day from Etna to the Klamath Basin refuges, with bald eagles in the trees and the wood stove waiting at home.
The coffee is in a thermos, the binoculars are on the dining table, and the frost hasn't lifted off the lawn yet. A couple of deer watch from under the oaks as you load the car. By mid-morning you'll be out on the open flats of the Klamath Basin, scanning the far edges of the water for a white head on a dark shape. By dark you'll be home, boots off, warming your hands by the stove and arguing happily about how many eagles you really saw.
That's our favorite winter day trip from the house. Before you choose a day, see what's on around Etna on our events calendar, then read on for the route, the refuges and what to expect.
Why the Klamath Basin in winter
From December through March, the Klamath Basin hosts about half of California's wintering bald eagles, according to Discover Siskiyou. In good years, more than 500 have been counted at Tule Lake. The birds spend their nights at Bear Valley National Wildlife Refuge, which protects their roost and is closed to the public, then spread out across the refuges by day to hunt and perch.
The two places to go are Lower Klamath National Wildlife Refuge and Tule Lake National Wildlife Refuge, near the towns of Tulelake and Dorris. Both are open sunrise to sunset, and both are free.
An honest note on numbers
We want to be straight with you: eagle numbers vary a lot from year to year, and water is the reason. Low water in recent years has cut bird numbers across the Basin. Some days the birds are easy to find. Other days you'll work for every one. Think of this as winter eagle viewing, not a guaranteed count. Call the visitor center before you go to ask what people are seeing that week, and treat every eagle as a good day.
Getting there, in daylight
The refuges are roughly 1.5 to 2 hours from Etna, by way of Yreka and Highway 97. Highway 97 runs along the north side of Mount Shasta, so on a clear morning the mountain keeps you company for a good part of the drive. Check the route in your maps app the night before.
Winter days are short, so plan the whole trip around daylight. Leave after an early breakfast, and aim to start home by mid-afternoon so you're back before dark. Drive together in one car if you can, and check Caltrans QuickMap before you leave for chain controls, closures and road cameras. You can also call the Caltrans highway information line at 1-800-427-7623.
Carry chains that fit, and know which wheels drive your car.
Keep the tank full before you leave the valley.
Pack the winter basics: a scraper, a shovel, a flashlight, water, food and blankets. Caltrans has more winter driving tips.
At the refuges
Start at the visitor center. The refuge visitor center is at 4064 Hill Road in Tulelake, phone 530-667-2231. It's open Tuesday through Saturday, 9 AM to 4 PM, and closed December 24, 25 and 31 and January 1. If you want to stop in, plan your trip for one of those days. The staff can tell you where the birds have been and how the water looks.
Drive the auto tour route. Tule Lake has a 12-mile all-weather auto tour route, which is the easiest way to see the refuge in winter. Go slowly, pull over where it's safe, and use the car as a blind. Eagles often sit far out across the flats or in distant trees, so binoculars make the day.
Reserve a photo blind if you're serious. Photo blinds at Tule Lake can be reserved. Ask the refuge for current details.
Give the birds room. Stay on the open routes and remember that Bear Valley, where the eagles roost, is closed to visitors.
A simple day plan
Morning: leave Etna after breakfast with a thermos and a packed lunch from the kitchen.
Late morning: stop at the visitor center, then start the Tule Lake auto tour.
Midday: lunch in the car with the heater on and the binoculars handy.
Early afternoon: a slow look at Lower Klamath, then turn for home.
Evening: back at the house before dark, stove lit, soup on, photos passed around the round table.
A note for anglers: winter steelhead
If someone in your group would rather fish than birdwatch, winter is steelhead season on the Klamath River. Fish arrive from October to January, catch rates are best from late fall into early winter, and the bigger fish tend to show up in December and January, according to California Fly Fisher. Popular stretches include Iron Gate to the Klamathon Bridge, Hornbrook to I-5, and public wade access along Highway 96 below I-5.
The important part: the rules on the Klamath have changed since dam removal. Hooks must be barbless, wild fish must be released, and the river is closed for 3,500 feet below the Iron Gate Dam site. Before you wet a line, check current regulations with the California Department of Fish and Wildlife. For a guided day, see our Klamath River fishing guide post.
Home to the wood stove
Honestly, the drive home is part of the pleasure. You come back into Scott Valley as the light goes, pull in, and the house is quiet and yours. Get the stove going, put something simple on in the kitchen and eat at the round table beside the fire. Every bedroom has blackout curtains, so there's no need to set an alarm the next morning.
At founding rates for Sovereign Circle members, low season (November to February) is $555 a night, three nights from $1,090, and a week for $2,000, with cleaning and every fee included. The 14% county lodging tax is shown before you pay. For four adults, three nights is $1,242.60 all in, about $311 each. Joining the Circle is free through December 31, 2026. A three-night stay gives you a day for the eagles, a day to rest and a day in the valley.
Common questions
When is the best time to see bald eagles in the Klamath Basin? December through March is peak winter. Call the refuge visitor center at 530-667-2231 before you go for current counts, since numbers vary with water levels.
How far are the refuges from Etna? Roughly 1.5 to 2 hours by way of Yreka and Highway 97, depending on the refuge and the roads. Plan to drive there and back in daylight.
Do the refuges cost anything? No. Lower Klamath and Tule Lake are free and open sunrise to sunset.
Can I fish for steelhead on the same trip? Yes, winter is steelhead season on the Klamath, but check current CDFW rules first. They have changed since dam removal.
Good to know
The visitor center is open Tuesday to Saturday, 9 AM to 4 PM, and closed December 24, 25 and 31 and January 1.
Bring binoculars, warm layers and a full thermos. The flats are cold and open.
Drive in daylight, stay together and check QuickMap before you go.
Check-in at the house is 3 PM and checkout is 11 AM. No pets.
Questions? Text the concierge at 530 572 1122 or email Concierge@blossomsanctuary.com.
Pick a clear day midweek, then check dates and price your stay. For the rest of your trip, see what's on around Etna on our events calendar, and browse our Scott Valley drives for shorter outings close to home.
