Fall color in Scott Valley: a slow week in Etna, California
Fall comes to Scott Valley in two waves. The planted trees in town turn first, and then the oaks and maples on the hills and along the creeks. Here is when to come, one dreamy day in Etna, where to eat and drink this season, and the drives worth taking.
When the color comes
Scott Valley lies in Siskiyou County, in the far north of California, with Etna on its west side at 2,936 feet. In most years the planted trees in town, many of them from elsewhere, turn first, in the first half of October. The native trees follow in the second half of the month and into November: oaks on the hillsides, and bigleaf maples, alders and dogwoods along the creeks that feed the Scott River.
Leaves keep their own calendar. A cold snap or an early storm can move things a week either way, so the second half of October is the safest bet for the hills and creeks.
An ideal fall day in Etna
Wake up slowly. Morning light comes over the mountains and into the gardens. There is a loaf of Farmhouse Bakery bread on the counter from yesterday's walk into town, the coffee is on, and if the night left a chill, the wood stove takes care of it. Take your cup outside and watch the valley wake up.
Breakfast on Main Street. Stroll into town for a chai or one of Wildwood Coffee's flavored coffees and a good breakfast, then wander past the old brick storefronts while the maples turn gold overhead.
Something just for you. Settle in at Citrine Lounge Spa on Collier Way for their signature facial, an hour of aromatherapy steam, pressure point massage and organic, wildcrafted products, or a long, unhurried pedicure. Next door, Rustic Haul Boutique is full of clothing, jewelry and pretty things for home. Book Citrine Lounge Spa ahead online. If you would rather move, take a yoga class with Chai Perlman. Class times change from week to week, so check Chai's schedule and book a spot.
Lunch in the garden. Tacos from the Patitos taco truck, carried home and eaten outside in the sun.
The afternoon is yours. A hammock under the trees, a book, a nap, a long conversation. Fall afternoons here are often still warm enough to stay outside until the light turns gold.
Golden hour. Pack a picnic basket and take the short loop out Island Road and home on Eastside Road. Eastside looks west across the whole valley, so you watch the sun go down behind the mountains from the best seat around.
Evening. End at Denny Bar Co., where they distill their own gin, bourbon and rye in one of Main Street's historic brick buildings. Stay for dinner, or come for a nightcap and something sweet. They have just rolled out a new menu for the season.
Night. Back at the Sanctuary, the sky fills with stars. Stay out as long as you like, then tuck into a bath, a bed, or a movie on the couch.
A fall food and drink tour
Etna is a small town, but it eats and drinks well. Here is where we would go this fall, in town and down the road.
Farmhouse Bakery, Main Street. Handmade breads, pastries, tarts and fresh pasta, with a lunch special on many days. It feels like a little corner of France on Main Street. Go early, because the good things go first.
Wildwood Coffee, Main Street. Known for its flavored coffees and chai, and a delicious breakfast and lunch menu. The easiest good morning in town.
Denny Bar Co., Main Street. A craft distillery and restaurant under one roof, where everything in the glass is made on site: Laust Sparrow gin (try the blackberry), Hearts Creed bourbon, Roosevelt rye, and a chocolate liqueur for dessert. Expect wood-fired pizzas, weekly specials from Thursday to Sunday, Sunday brunch, and short distillery tours on weekends. Call or book online for a table.
Etna Brewing Co., Callahan Street. The town's brewery, with brewing roots in Etna going back to 1872 and a covered, heated patio made for cool fall afternoons. Ask for the Blackberry Blonde.
Then take one of two drives for dinner.
The Fort Jones loop, for Five Marys. Take the back roads north: Island Road out of Etna, across the Scott River at Black Bridge on Eller Lane, a one-lane steel bridge from 1910, and up Eastside Road into Fort Jones, about 12.5 miles of hay fields and ranches. On Main Street, Five Marys Burgerhouse fills a historic bar and serves dry-aged burgers from the family's own Five Marys Farms ranch, plus a well-loved hamburger soup. Book a table, then come home on Highway 3 for a loop of about 24 miles.
The Callahan loop, for the Emporium. Take Island Road to Black Bridge, then follow Eastside Road south along the quiet east side of the valley, where it becomes East Callahan Road, all the way to Callahan. The Callahan Emporium is a general store, restaurant and bar in a historic building that was long called the biggest little store in the West. Pull up a stool, have something good to eat, and look for the dollar bills on the wall. Come home on Highway 3 for a loop of about 35 miles.
Small-town kitchens keep short weeks, and many close early in the week, so check before you drive in.
Drives worth taking
The two dinner loops above are our favorite back roads. Here are four more drives.
The short loop. Island Road to Black Bridge, right on Eastside Road, and back across the river on Horn Lane to Highway 3. About 14 miles, with the river, the ranches and the mountains all around.
The Valley Loop. Highway 3 north through Greenview to Fort Jones, then Eastside Road south all the way to Callahan, and Highway 3 back to Etna. About 48 miles around the whole valley.
Up to Etna Summit. Sawyers Bar Road climbs about 10 miles from Etna to the summit, at about 5,960 feet, where the Pacific Crest Trail crosses the road. On the way up, Etna Creek runs beside the road past the Klamath National Forest sign, a lovely place to stop and listen to the water. In wetter years, coho salmon spawn in its gravel from late fall into winter, so leave the rocks as you find them. At the top, the Marble Mountain Wilderness is to the north and the Russian Wilderness to the south. There is no water or restroom, and the road narrows beyond the summit, so go on a clear day and turn back there.
The Salmon River loop. A full day: south to Callahan, over the Scott Mountains to Cecilville, down the South Fork of the Salmon River to Forks of Salmon, up the North Fork to Sawyers Bar, and home over Etna Summit. About 100 miles, much of it narrow mountain road with one-lane stretches, so fill up in Etna and take your time.
Every one of these is a bike ride, too, from the easy valley loops to the long climb to Etna Summit. Maps and mileage for each are in our guide to Scott Valley drives and bike loops.
Back at the house
Blossom Sanctuary is a private house and gardens on 4.2 acres, a short walk from town. Fall afternoons can still be mild enough for the hammocks under the trees, and the cold nights are what the wood stove is for. On a clear night the sky over the valley is dark, and the Leonid meteor shower peaks the night of November 16 to 17.
The house sleeps six in three bedrooms. See open dates and prices for your fall stay.
Before you go
Leaf timing changes from year to year. Check a recent fall color report before a long drive.
Fall is hunting season in the mountains around the valley. Wear something bright on the trails.
Check current fire restrictions in the national forest, and expect snow to close Etna Summit and the mountain roads at some point in late fall. There are no services at the summit and no reliable gas on the Salmon River loop.
Small-town hours change with the season. Check before you drive in.